The Volyn Region. A Fairytale Kaleidoscope

By Iryna Tumarkina
©PANORAMA

The Volyn land, though only 3.3 percent of the overall territory of Ukraine, holds a top position due to its natural beauty, historic significance and the number of prominent historic monuments (837 of them!). Add to that dense forests, crystal clear lakes, including the Shatski lakes – some of the clearest in Europe, and the wonderful hospitability of the Volyn people and you have the perfect mix for a perfect getaway

The Volyn region, bordered by both Poland, Byelorussia and Ukraine’s Rivne and Lviv regions, is said to be named after the chief of the Eastern Slavonic Dulibs tribe which founded the city of Velyn in the Prypiat and Western Bug river basins. In 981 Great Prince Volodymyr annexed these lands to Kiev, they then belonged to Lithuania, Russia, Austria-Hungary and Poland, and only in 1939 did they return to Ukraine. A wonderful mix of architectural and cultural styles, nationalities and alliances, was refined into charming landscapes that became the Volyn region.

‘Little Rome of the East’

Lutsk is both the centre of the region and its capital. Totally destroyed and burnt twice (in 1240 and 1500), in 1249 European monarchs began to gather there and it “settled” on European maps as Luchesk the Great. Having attracted numerous Catholic orders – the Dominicans, the Jesuits, the Sharits, the Brigids, the Carmelites, the city acquired the moniker “Little Rome of the East”. Its unique attraction is “underground Lutsk”, where approximately four floors below ground an “entire city under the city” several kilometres long is located.

In the centre of the modern city Saint Trinity Cathedral (1752-1755), once property of the Catholic Bernandines monastery, stands proudly. From here Lesi Ukrainky Street with its numerous old houses, shops, coffee-houses and “Krainia Khata” (authentic art gallery) leads you to the “Stare Misto” (Old City) Historic and Cultural Reserve. The pearl of the city, and its symbol, is Lutsk Castle (1 Kafedralna Str.), i.e. Lubart’s Castle, established by Prince Lubart in 1340-1348. Now the castle armory, ceramics and unique bell collection is exhibited in its three towers. Excursions through the territory reveal archeological remnants of a 12th century church, the Prince’s palace from the 14-16th century and the unique Museum of Antique Books.

Further past the castle square, you will discover the Roman Catholic Peter and Paul Cathedral (1616–1640), designed by Italian architect Giacomo Briani. Due to its wonderful acoustics this is a regular venue for organ music concerts. Adjacent to the church is the 17th century Jesuit monastery and the 100 year neo-gothic old Lutheran Kirche. Nearby is the eclectic mini-castle designed by architect Mykola Holovan, and often compared with Kiev’s House of Chimeras.

In addition, there is the Regional Museum of Local Art, Architecture and Folklore (20 Chopin St.) and the intriguing Museum of Volyn Icons, which is one of the most dignified Christian sanctuaries boasting the miracle-working icon of the Blessed Virgin of Kholm.

Having slaked your spiritual thirst, you can rest in one Lutsk’s cosy cafes or bars, since Lutsk has the largest number of these locations per capita in Ukraine.

Prince’s City

Second only to Lutsk, but also the pride of Volyn, is the city of Volodymyr-Volynskyi, founded by Prince Volodymyr Sviatoslavovych in 988. For several centuries it was the capital of the Halytsko-Volynske principality and the economic and political centre of southwest Kiev Rus. Now the city is a real paradise for connoisseurs of architecture.

Probably the oldest witness of the many-sided history of Volodymyr-Volynskyi is the Holy Assumption Cathedral (1156–1160). It is the region’s only architectural monument from the pre-Mongolian period. By the way, it was within the1.5 metre thick walls of this church that the 17 princes of Ukraine-Rus accepted their principality. Near it, in “Slovianskyi” park, a fabled ‘healing spring’ has flowed for more than 1000 years…

Vasylivska’s white and blue church rotundas dating from the 13th-15th centuries, are impressive standing on its eight-petal foundation (30 Vasylivska Str.). In the historic centre of the city you are welcomed by a church from the mid-18th century – Christmas Church (20 Mykolaivska Str.) and the slender baroque Yakym and Anna Church (1752) – the former Capuchin monastery. According to legend, in 1794 the state treasures of Poland were hidden here (1 Heroiv Str.)

Pearls of the Region

Christians from all over Ukraine make the pilgrimage to the village of Zymne in the Southern suburbs of Volodymyr. Here is the Sviatogirskyi Holy Assumption Monastery and caves, founded by Volodymyr the Great, and also St. Assumption, Holy Trinity and the cave St. Varlam Churches.

Near Volodymyr-Volynskyi, bordering Ustylug, is the manor-museum of world-famous composer Igor Stravinskyi, where he composed his best music works.

For tourists from many countries acquaintance with the Volyn region begins from Kovel, (founded at the beginning of the 9th century), or more precisely from its railway station. Only 8 km east of Kovel is the village of Kolodiazhne, where prominent Ukrainian poetess Lesia Ukrainka lived and worked. Their former manors house the literature and memorial Lesia Ukrainka museum (tel.:(+380 3352) 902-24), consisting of more than 4000 exhibits, and in existence now for more than 50 years.

On the outskirts of the town of Berestechko is the unique museum-reserve “Cossacks’ Graves”. At this place in 1651 the historic battle between Polish King Ian Kazimir II and the famous Hetman Bogdan Khmelnytskyi was fought.

And finally in the village of Rokyni, 12 km from Lutsk, tourists are welcomed to Volyn with an open air museum (tel..: (+380 3322) 993-75), with examples of typical manors, windmills, blacksmithing, a wooden chapel and various farming tools, etc. In addition there is a tablet, claiming that this is the third greatest place in Ukraine for “positive energy emanating from space”.

“Blue eyes of Volyn”

Almost one third of this territory is carpeted by lush wonderful forests. And against the background of these fairytale forest landscapes are 220 lakes and 130 sparkling blue rivers. The Shatski lakes (24 in all), acknowledged as some of the biggest and the clearest group of lakes in Europe, are called the “blue eyes of Volyn”. The jewel of this collection is Svitiaz, the so-called ‘Ukrainian Baikal’ – our country’s largest (2,750 ha) and deepest (up to 58 m) natural lake. Due to silver and glycerin content its water is said to have healing properties. At one time this water was brought to Warsaw in barrels and girls took “beauty baths” in it.

Another wonder of Volyn is the crystal-clear Okonski springs on the Lutsk-Manevychi road. High pressure water underground wells out shaped like two domes from limestone slabs with a temperature of +8°C.

We have a lot more to say about the Volyn region. But enough words! It is open and beautiful for visitors any season of the year. Just come and discover Volyn for yourself!

Information about the Region

Volyn Region State Administration: http://www.invest.voladm.gov.ua/eng/index.html
Business portal for the city of Lutsk: www.lutsk.biz
Booking excursions:
“Volyntourist”, tel.: (+380 3322) 30-411, е-mail: vturist@lutsk.utel.net.ua
“Krok tour”, tel.: (+380 332) 77-44-36, е-mail: krok1@utel.net.ua

Where to Stay and Relax

“Ukraina” Hotel
4-star hotel in the centre of Lutsk with 127 comfortable rooms. The hotel offers refined dining in their restaurant with banquet room, bar, SPA-centre and car-park.
Address: 2 Slovatskogo St., tel: (+380 332) 78-81-18.

“Maidan” and “Obolon” Beer Clubs
These are exceptional establishments, where you will be treated to mouth-watering dishes in an atmosphere where you can really relax. In addition, these are the most popular places in the region for Ukrainian rock groups to perform.
Address: “Maidan” – 2 Boiko St., tel: (+380 332) 72-48-41; “Obolon” – 8a Kopernika St., tel: (+380 332) 72-15-07.

“Korona Vitovta” (Vitovt’s Crown) Restaurant
Located in a historic building in the shadow of the walls of the historic Upper Castle, this is the most luxurious restaurant in the city. Spoil yourself and sample the same delicacies which were served to the European monarchs who came to Lutsk in 1492 to the coronation of Vitovt, the Great Prince of Lithuania.
Address: 1 Plytnytsi St., Zamkova Sq., tel: (+380 332) 72-71-14.

“Volyn” Hotel
Centrally located, this modern hotel offers 52 comfortable rooms. Next door to the hotel is the Druzhba restaurant featuring Ukrainian and European cuisines.
Address: 1 Kniazia Vasylka St., Volodymyr-Volynskyi, tel: (+380 3342) 228-82; restaurant tel.: (+380 3342) 246-62.

Getting There

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