© PANORAMA 2005
It would be hard to find a region in Ukraine that could compete with the Lviv region when it comes to the number and variety of places of interest: the Carpathian Mountains, Little Polissia, world-class balneotherapy spa resorts, dozens of ancient castles, unique cities and towns and, of course, Lviv itself - the true heart of the region
Lviv is the quintessential old European city. First mentioned in historical records in the year 1256, it was founded by Prince Danylo Halytskyi, who named it in honour of his son Lev. For this reason, you will encounter sculptures of lions all over the city. The historical centre of Lviv is complete and self-contained. Like a gourmet entrée, no part of Old Lviv should be passed over, but it should be savoured a little bit at a time. Each quarter has its own unique flavour and history in the form of medieval churches, old stone buildings, cobblestone streets, aromatic coffee houses and the artistic ideas that for many centuries have determined the atmosphere of Lviv and the true soul of Ukraine.
Ancient Lviv
Sightseeing in Lviv should begin in Rynok Square. At the end of the 14th century, King Casimir III of Poland conquered Lviv, and Rynok Square became the axis around which the political, economic and cultural life of the city revolved. In the centre of the square stands the 65-metre-tall City Hall (1 Rynok Square), the entrance guarded by two lions. Climbing the 390 stairs to the top of City Hall affords a stunning view of the city. Rynok Square is surrounded by 44 buildings from different eras built in a variety of styles (Renaissance, Empire and Baroque). The most impressive is Korniakt’s Palace (6 Rynok Square) built in 1580 with a three-storey arcade surrounding the courtyard (better known as the Italian Courtyard and home to a famous coffee house). All four corners of the square are decorated with sculptures of ancient gods and goddesses.
Construction of the Latin Cathedral (1 Cathedral Square), near Rynok Square, began in 1360. Because the original plans provided for the construction of another tower, it could be considered the city’s oldest unfinished building. Near the Cathedral is Boims Chapel (1609-15), an example of Eastern-European architecture. The chapel is completely covered with bas-reliefs inside and out.
Near Rynok Square one can buy medicine at the Pharmacy Museum (2 Drukarska St.), founded in 1735. Its interior has remained practically unchanged to the present day. Its massive oak shelves display pharmaceutical glassware and porcelain, and the basement features an exhibition of ancient pharmaceutical equipment.
The most magnificent example of the Baroque Era is the mid-18th-century Dominican Cathedral (1 Stavropihiyska St.) near the pharmacy. The 60-metre-tall Korniakt’s Tower (9 Pidvalna St.), constructed from 1572-78, also makes an unforgettable impression. The current City Armory (5 Pidvalna St.), which houses the Museum of Armament, is also worth visiting. The Royal Armoury (13 Pidvalna St.) has housed the state archives since 1939. The Gunpowder Tower (47 Pidvalna St.) has long been a storage place for works of art rather than gunpowder: this building with walls 3 metres thick serves as the showroom for the House of the Architect.
City Landmarks
From the 15th-18th centuries, Lviv played a prominent role in the development of medieval culture. Thus, the Lviv University, founded in 1661, is one of Central Europe’s oldest universities. There is a monument in Lviv to Ivan Fedorov, who published Ukraine’s first printed books, The Apostle and The Hornbook.
One of Lviv’s oldest buildings is the Armenian Cathedral (7 Virmenska St.), whose artistic value is derived from its 15th-century sculptures. Virmenska Street itself is one of the most beautiful streets in Lviv. Almost every house on the street is a point of architectural interest, including the Four Seasons House. Its façade depicts the twelve signs of the zodiac, the four seasons and Chronos, who measures time.
One could hardly imagine the city without the grand Baroque St Yur Cathedral (5 St Yur Square), which was built from 1744-70 on the site where cave monks lived during the times of the Kyivan Rus. Another symbol of Lviv is High Castle Hill, the former residence of the prince and the highest point in the city (410 metres above sea level). From the crest of the hill, one can see the city’s historical centre, parks and rows of new houses on the horizon.
In the evenings the focal point of Lviv life moves to the central Svoboda Avenue, where the beautiful streetlights reveal fashionable Lvivans out for a stroll or simply waiting for the beginning of a performance at the Ivan Franko Opera and Ballet Academic Theatre (28 Svoboda Avenue).
No discussion of Lviv would be complete without a mention of coffee. As they say in Lviv, “The morning, business and love - everything begins with coffee.” In fact, Europe’s first coffee house, the House under the Blue Bottle, was opened in Vienna by Yury Kulczycki, a native of the Lviv region. Maybe this explains why one has to go to the capital of Austria to find coffee that is as rich and aromatic as the coffee in Lviv.
The Golden Horseshoe
Golden Horseshoe Castles, named for their shape on a map, constitute the most famous points of interest in the Lviv region. Three old Ukrainian cities form the horseshoe. On its southern edge lies the town of Zolochiv. The mighty 17th-century Sobieski Castle replaced the town’s former wooden fortress. The castle courtyard contains two palaces - one in the Renaissance style and another, called the Chinese Palace, in an Oriental style.
On the northern edge lies the Olesko Castle - one of Ukraine’s most picturesque castles. The castle grounds house the Lviv Art Gallery (Tel.: (+380 3264) 25-280). Part of the exhibit is situated in the Capuchin Monastery opposite the castle.
The arc of the Golden Horseshoe curves to the east, where the 17th-century Pidhirtsi Castle, known as the Ukrainian Versailles for its beauty, nestles among the hills of the Voroniaky Uplands. Opposite the castle is the 18th-century St Joseph and the Exaltation of the Cross Church.
Among the numerous castles of the Lviv region, the 16th-century Castle of King Jan III Sobieski in Zhovkva deserves special mention. The city’s largest building, it dominates the central square, which also includes the Parish Cathedral and St Laurence Cathedral, built almost 300 years ago. Twelve kilometres from Zhovkva is the Basilian Monastery in Krekhiv, a popular place of pilgrimage and a prime example of the architecture characteristic to fortified churches. No less famous, the Studite Monastery and Fortress in the village of Mezhyhiria (Univ) was founded in 1400.
Twenty kilometres from Lviv is the town of Svirzh with the remarkably beautiful 15th-century Castle of the Princess of Svirzh. Built in the Renaissance style with a moat on three sides, the huge white stone building has been the set for many films, including a film adaptation of Dumas’ The Three Musketeers.
Towns, Mountains and Healing Waters
While in the Lviv region, visit the old towns of Halychyna and soak in their unique atmosphere. Sambir is considered one of the centres of the unique Boyky ethnic group. An exhibit about the Boyky is located in the Boyky Homeland Museum (Tel.: (+380 3236) 32-294).
Drohobych, founded on the site of the former village of Bich, could be called the Carpathian Phoenix. During its history the city has experienced growth and decline, with a rapid rise to wealth during the salt and oil boom and a sudden fall to poverty when the mines were exhausted.
The southeastern part of the Lviv region is intersected by the Carpathian Mountains, an ideal place for recreation and tourism. The village of Slavsko (www.slavsko.com) near the Lviv-Tchop International Highway is considered the winter-sport capital. There are dozens of mountain ski runs with varying degrees of difficulty, over twenty ski lodges and hundreds of cottages and private hotels. Another popular village is Tysovets. During the Soviet Era, it welcomed only professional sportsmen, but when Ukraine became independent, it opened its doors to everyone.
The Lviv region is also famous for its medicinal waters. The healing properties of Naftusia water from the town of Truskavets (Tel.: (+380 3247) 66-060) are internationally known. The medicinal mineral waters of the village of Morshyn (Tel.: (+380 3260) 60-560) are similar to the waters of Karlovy Vary and Wiesbaden, and the hydrosulphide springs of Nemyrov are similar to those of Matsesta in Italy.
The Lviv region with all its attractions for both mind and feelings will always impress even the most demanding visitors. And like every soul, it still conceals many secrets to be discovered…
How to get there?
Ukraine International Airlines offers flights from Kiev, Frankfurt, Madrid, Barcelona and Vienna to Lviv.
Book online www.flyUIA.com
Places to Stay and Relax
George Hotel
Operating in the heart of Lviv for over two hundred years, this legendary hotel offers deluxe, semiluxe and standard rooms. You’ll want to stay for more than a night at the George.
Address: 1 Mitskevycha St., Lviv; Tel.: (+380 322) 72-59-52
Grand Hotel
One of Lviv’s best hotels located on its main street, it offers deluxe rooms, delicious cuisine in the hotel restaurant, a business centre, indoor swimming pool and jacuzzi.
Address: 13 Svobody Av., Lviv; Tel.: (+380 32) 727-665.
World of Coffee
This coffee house with a view to the Cathedral offers a remarkable range of coffee and pastry. It is a favourite meeting place for the Lviv elite.
Address: 6 Cathedral Square, Lviv; Tel.: (+380 3244) 20-049
Tustan Hotel
This comfortable hotel in the centre of Drohobych offers deluxe rooms and rooms for 1, 2 or 3 people.
Address: 2 Shevchenko St., Drohobych; Tel.: (+380 3244) 20-049
Boikivschyna Lodge
Comfortable deluxe and semiluxe rooms, tasty food and transportation services.
Address: 4 I. Franko St., Slavsko village; Tel.: (+380 3251) 41-364, 41-157
Bureau for Private Rental Homes
Will find you a house in Truskavets quickly and professionally.
Address: 5 Shevchenko St.; Tel.: (+380 3247) 54-413
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