by Olena Svitlovska ©PANORAMA
In Ukraine there are not many regions which can compete with Ivano Frankivsk. It leads in many regards, including: the number of historic and cultural monuments (3.5 thousand), cultivated forests (covering 41 percent of the region’s territory), types of folk art crafts (works of local craftsmen are exhibited in museums in Kiev, Moscow, Toronto and New York) and the number of Hutzul wizards called ‘molfars’. If you do not believe, just visit and see this fascinating Carpathian region for yourself!
When Eurovision-2004 winner Ruslana shot the video for her album “Wild Dances“, the weather was dull and the sky clouded so she decided to ask a local molfar for help. Reportedly, after 15 minutes of the wizard’s “work” the sun shone over the mountains.
Molfars are fascinating, but Christmas is more important. During this festive period the Ivano-Frankivsk region turns into a wonderland. It is worth visiting, because here you can celebrate Christmas according to the ancient traditions, try a real Ukrainian Christmas dish called kutia (a delicious mix of wheat with honey, raisins and walnuts) and listen to the local Hutsulian carols. Also here you can ski or go sledding. The Carpathian region is a picturesque mountain land, which will not disappoint you. In addition to a real merry holiday celebration you will discover the unique Hutzul culture where you can even learn to dance the fiery Hutzul dances.
Europe in Ukraine
The European history of Ivano-Frankivsk (www.mvk.if.ua, www.portal.if.ua) began with Stanislav fortress built by Polish magnate Andriy Pototskyi and named after his son Stanislav, and almost ended with the “marmelade fire” of 1868. Almost the whole city burnt due to the carelesness of a lady cooking marmalade on a low fire.
In 1962 Stanislav was renamed Ivano-Frankivsk. Its City Hall, built in the constructivism style, houses a Museum of Local Lore, History and Economy (4-A Halytska St., tel.: (+380 3422) 221-22), with a wonderful mix of artifacts: the jaw of a saw-fish, a crocodile carcass, furniture from the Pototskyi era and early printed editions of the Bible.
The Art Museum is also worth visiting (8 Sheptytsky Sq., tel: (+380 3422) 440-38); its exhibition hall is located in the Renaissance Parish Church, built in the 17th century. Here unique works of sacred art from the 15th -20th centuries are exhibited.
Roaming the streets of the city you can investigate the Palace of Potostkyi, the Hetman arbors, the monument commemorating the 2000th anniversary of the birth of Christ and visit the many quaint cafes. You will never taste coffee like this anywhere else! It is possible only in Lviv.
Another European town is Kolomyia (www.kolomyia.if.ua) with its unique museums. The Kolomyia Museum of Folk Art of the Hutsul region named after Yosafat Kobrynskyi (25, Teatralna St., tel.: +380 3433) 239-12) was even put into the United Kingdom’s royal encyclopedia as a world masterpiece! Its collection includes 22 thousand items, including products made of metal, leather, wood, ceramics, and national folk costumes. Do not miss the chance to discover the world’s only Museum of Pysanka (Easter Egg) (43-B Chornovola Av., tel: (+380 3433) 278-91), whose building is in the form of a 14 metre long egg. Here there are about 6,000 Easter eggs from various countries around the world - Ukraine, Pakistan, Shri-Lanka, Belarus and Poland.
From Kolomyia it is not a great distance to Kosiv (www.kosiv.info, www.kosivart.com), - one of the oldest Hutsul villages in Ukraine, a real Mecca for folk crafts. Most of all Kosiv is known for its fair, where it is possible to buy almost everything - from original yellow and green ceramics to a devil in a bottle who, according to legend, will help make you rich.
History in Stone
Carpathian towns and their architectural monuments give the best picture of the region’s history. To see this yourself be sure to visit Halych (www.castles.com.ua/?halych) - the oldest city in the region, capital of the Halytsko-Volynske Principality. Here is the National Reserve “Ancient Halych” (1 I. Franka St., tel.: (+380 3431) 216-63), which includes a number of unique exhibits: St. Panteleimon’s Church (12th century), basements of 14 ancient churches of the 12th-13th centuries, Metropolitan’s chambers of the 18th - 19th centuries. From Halysch it is a short distance to Rohatyn - motherland of Nastya Lisovska, known to the world as Roksolana - the wife of the powerful Turkish Sultan Suleiman II the Magnificent.
The town of Yaremcha is pure romance. You will hear about the Carpathian Robin Hood - Olexa Dovbush, and on the Prut River you will see a true Carpathian wonder - Probiy waterfall.
Near Yaremcha, in the village of Kryvorivnia, Sergiy Paradzhanov’s film “Shades of Forgotten Ancestors” was shot (in the Guinness World Book of Records for the number of awards it received).
Just 37 km from Yaremcha is one of the most famous monuments in the Carpathian region - Maniavskyi Priory monastery (beginning of 17th century). The Bogorodchanskyi iconostasis, a real masterpiece of Ukrainian painiting, was created here during the 17th - 18th centuries. In the Church of the Raising of the Holy Cross there is a miraculous icon of the Blessed Virgin created in the 18th century on Aphon Hill. Maniavskyi Priory has been listed in a guide of world museums and is registered by the International Association of Museums.
In Nature’s Lap
At the end of the Ice Age mammoths, shaggy rhinoceros and giant deer, (whose fossils were found here in 1907), roamed the Carpathian region. But more impressive is that five to six thousand years ago people from the Trypillia culture resided here. Hints of their motifs are seen even today in modern Hutsul painted ceramics and Easter eggs.
A third of Ukraine’s rivers (more than seven thousand!), run through the Ivano-Frankivsk region. Among those is the cleanest river in Europe - Limnytsia. For the preservation of such national treasures they have created the Carpathian State National Nature Park, which occipies an area of 503 square metres and has Ukraine’s highest peak - Hoverla (2061 m).
The Carpathian region is particularly famous for its resorts. Climate therapy, balneological procedures and spa programes in the vacation hotels and sanatoria of the Carpathian region are comparable to the best European resorts!
“Arkan” + “Bunosh”
You can admire the beauty of this region 365 days a year. It doesn’t matter whether you stay in a large hotel or in a village cottage. The region’s hospitable hosts create a cosy atmosphere that is so pleasant to sink into after excursions, mountain trips, rafting and skiing!
Be sure to try the highlights of the local cuisine: bunosh - corn meal cooked with sour cream and brynza, cheese made from sheep’s milk. For this you should go to the highland and visit the kolybas - wooden houses, where the shepherds live. And plunge into continious rounds of Arkan Hutsul dances with them!
Christmas is not far away, so hurry to the Carpathian region and take part in a really magical event, which takes place here during the Christmas holiday. On Christmas Eve they decorate the place of honor in the house with Didukh - a tree made of sheafs where, according to legend, the souls of our ancestors live. Then you can help your hostess set a “living fire” in the oven with the help of 12 logs needed to cook 12 lenten dishes. Then recall the famous Hutsul proverb about one molfar who taught that the source of life for the world is in happiness. This idea, very close to the hearts of Hutsuls, is quite appropriate during these holidays, not only in the Carpathian region but everywhere.
Information about the region:
Ivano Frankivsk region business portal: www.business.if.ua
Regional State Administration: www.if.gov.ua
Tourism Council of the Carpathian region: www.tourism-carpathian.com.ua
To order excursions: Tour operator “Halychanka IF”. Tel.: (+380 3422) 422-71, е-mail: web-site: www.galychankaif.com.ua; office@galychankaif.com.ua.
Getting There
You can get to Ivano-Frankivsk from Kiev via one of the convenient daily trains (www.uz.gov.ua).
Ukraine International Airlines offers direct daily flights to Kiev from most of Western Europe’s largest cities.
With your Panorama Club Card you can accumulate miles on all UIA flights and flights of our partner airlines: Air France (excluding the Kiev-Paris route), Austrian Airlines, KLM, Swiss International Air Lines, TAP Portugal.
Buy tickets online at www.flyUIA.com.
For more information, call us in Kiev at (+380 44) 581-5050.
KyivStar or UMC cellular service subscribers can dial 566.
Where to Stay and Relax
Auscoprut Hotel
Elegant ancient building in the central part of the city with aristocratic suites and cosy junior suites.
Contacts: 7-9, Hrunvaldska St., Ivano-Frankivsk. Tel.: (+380 3422) 224-26, web-site: www.auscoprut.if.ua; e-mail: auscoprut@ivf.ukrpack.net.
Nadia Hotel
Modern hotel in the centre of the city with comfortable rooms from economy class to suites and an exquisite menu of Ukrainian and European cuisine.
Contacts: 40, Nezalezhnosti St., Ivano-Frankivsk. Tel.:(+380 342) 53-70-77, web-site: www.nadia.if.ua, e-mail: tour@nadia.if.ua.
Hoverla Cottage
Cosy private cottage with refined rooms at the foot of the Carpathians and by the Prut River.
Contacts: 331, Svobody Str., Yaremcha. Tel.: (+380 3434) 22-186, e-mail: goverla@jar.if.ua
Kosiv Hotel
Modern tourist hotel with ethnic style. In the 17th century styled cellar there is Lotker’s Treasures bar, where one can try Hutsul dishes and home-made beer.
Contacts: 65-A Nezalezhnosti St., Kosiv. Tel.: (+380 34) 782-1557, web-site: www.tur.kosiv.net; e-mail: tur.kosiv@gmail.com.
If you liked my post, feel free to subscribe to my rss feeds
Try our new interactive