Feodosia. Genovese Citadel

Text and photos by Iryna Pustynnikova ©PANORAMA
http://www.castles.com.ua/

Once ancient Cafa, now the south-eastern resort of Crimea; Feodosia measures its age in centuries. Who has this city not seen during its lifetime? The contemporaries of Hellenic legends, Armenian colonies, enterprising Genoeses, Turkish invaders and Zaporizhian Cossacks – the ancient walls of the Feodosian Citadel, spread out on Karantynnyi Hill in the northern part of the city, remember their deeds

The blessed land, a sweet spot, the long dreamed of territory – these words are just as true of modern as of medieval Crimea, which was the patrimony of the Golden Horde. Who knows what the destiny would have been for the small village of Cafa (or Caffa), (founded by the ancient Greeks on the Black Sea coast in the mid 6th century), if merchants from the Italian city of Genoa had not bought it from a Tatar Khan in 1266. The city’s whole epoch full of glory and legends is thanks in no small part to the Genovese. Soon after the Italian’s arrival the golden age of Cafa truly began. It became a large commercial city and a main shipping center for caravans coming to Europe from Central Asia, India and China. Understanding how attractive Cafa was to Tartar invaders, the Genoeses built stone walls (12 m high and 2.5 m wide), strengthened with twenty six towers. In the Middle Ages the Genoese Fortress had two lines of defense: the external (with the city inside) and an internal Citadel three times smaller. At the time it was one of the most powerful fortifications in Europe.

However, strong fortress walls did not help the Genoeses in their fight with Muhammed II, a Turkish sovereign who drove the Italians from Crimea and turned Cafa into the capital of its Crimean province. The new ruler established control over shipping in the Black Sea, blocking European merchants’ access to it, and the streets of Cafa lost their lively spirit of international trade. Only one thing did not change: Cafa remained Crimea’s main slave-market. From this city captured Ukrainians were sold into slavery to Turkey, Italy and other countries. This is probably why the majority of legends about the Feodosian Citadel are not about ghosts, but about escaping from captivity.

One such story is about beautiful black-eyed Oksana, sold in Cafa into a harem. Zaporizhzhian Cossack Pavlo, who madly loved the girl, rescued her by changing into a woman who sold dresses and laces. He smuggled Oksana out hidden in a basket of fabrics!

However, the history here is full of incredible events even without the Genoese Citadel. In 1347 the troops of Jani Beg, a khan of the Golden Horde, laid siege to Cafa-Feodosia. They were stopped only by the Black Plague that started in the Tartar camp, and then proceeded to the Consul’s Palace in the Citadel. The Italians left Cafa by ship and spread the plague throughout Europe.

The old fortress walls, silent witnesses of the past, remember the sea campaign to Cafa (1616) of Zaporozhian Cossacks guided by Hetman Petro Sagaidachnyi. The Cossacks captured the stronghold, wiped out 14 thousand Turkish garrisons and released many captives.

The internal fortification of the fortress, the Citadel, is a trapezoid made from lime stone. Once on this land there were palaces, a Catholic bishop’s residence, a treasury, a court, warehouses and shops for valuable commodities: fur, jewelry and silk. But by the end of the 18th century the majority of the Citadel’s buildings were no longer used and were dismantled. Only the 14th century towers of Clement and Krisco (Christ) along with big chunks of the fortress walls and entrance gates remember the past. The highlight of the city, Constantine tower (1382-1448) rises at the port.

Near the Citadel several 700 year old Armenian churches remain. Among them is the functioning church of the Iverska Icon of the Blessed Virgin (1348).

However, Feodosiya is not only a unique historic place, but also a “citadel” of culture and art. After touring the fortress, visit the Ivan Aivazovsky Feodosian art gallery (2, Halereina Str.). It represents the largest collection of this prominent seascape painter’s works, which have been exhibited throughout the world. Having built the gallery in 1845, Aivazovsky gave it to his native city as a gift.

And try to see Feodosia through the eyes of Alexander Pushkin who visited this city when he was 20 year old, or Anton Chekhov who saw the sea for the first time here. Who has this city not seen? Add your name to the list of warriors, kings and poets that have roamed this territory and discover the strength and history of the Citadel for yourself.

Useful Information

Crimea and Feodosia tours are arranged by these tourist firms:
“Nika Tour”: Feodosia, tel.: +38 06562 31 490, e-mail: ttb@ru.sf.ukrtel.net
“Panorama Tours”: www.panorama-tours.com.ua, www.panorama-tours.eu
All about vacations in Feodosia: www.kafanews.com/main_eng.phtml, http://i-feodosia.com/, http://www3.tour.crimea.com/NAVIGATOR/ABOUT_CRIMEA/feodosiya.shtml

Getting There

kiev flights Ukraine International Airlines offers daily flights from Kiev to Simferopol, as well as direct flights from Berlin to Simferopol (on Tuesdays) and from Frankfurt to Simferopol (on Thursdays and Saturdays). With your Panorama Club Card you will earn 398 miles in Economy Class and 597 miles in Business Class on the Kiev-Simferopol route, 1074 miles and 1611 miles respectively on the Berlin-Simferopol route, and 1000 miles and 1500 miles respectively on the Frankfurt-Simferopol route.